Updated March 2026
Roof Replacement Checklist
A new roof is a $9,000-$15,000 decision. Do not wing it.
This is the checklist I would hand my neighbor before they signed anything. 27 items, split into three phases: before you hire, during the project, and after the crew leaves. Print it. Bring it to every meeting with your roofer.
Before You Hire 10 items
Do all of this before you sign a contract or put down a deposit.
- Not verbal. Not ballpark. Written, itemized estimates you can compare line by line. Use our calculator to know your baseline before the first roofer shows up.
- Ask for a certificate of insurance. Call the insurance company to confirm it is active. If they cannot produce this in 24 hours, move on.
- If a worker gets hurt on your property and the company has no workers' comp, you could be liable. This is not optional. It is a dealbreaker.
- Certified installers can offer better warranties. GAF Master Elite, Owens Corning Preferred, CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster. Ask which certification they hold.
- Most roof replacements require a permit. Fees range from $100 to $500+ depending on your county. Your roofer should pull the permit, not you. But know what it costs so you can spot a markup.
- Look for patterns, not just star ratings. Multiple complaints about the same issue (cleanup, communication, surprise charges) are a red flag. See our guide to roofing scams.
- Any roofer worth hiring can give you three recent customers to call. Ask about timeline, cleanup, communication, and whether the final cost matched the estimate.
- Some "local" roofers are actually sales reps for national outfits. Independent companies usually have more accountability and flexibility on pricing.
- Sub-contracted crews may not meet the same standards. Ask: "Will your employees do the work, or do you use subcontractors?" Get the answer in the contract.
- Spend 60 seconds on our roof cost calculator before you talk to anyone. Knowing the ballpark keeps you from getting anchored by the first quote you hear. Learn how to negotiate from there.
During the Project 10 items
Once the crew is on your roof, here is what to watch for.
- The permit should be visible on your property. No permit means no inspection, and no inspection means no accountability. This also protects your home sale down the road.
- Overlaying new shingles on old ones is cheaper but hides problems. Unless you specifically agreed to an overlay, the old roof should come off completely. See how to read your estimate to check.
- Once the old shingles are off, ask to see the decking. Soft spots, rot, or water stains mean those sheets need replacing. A good roofer will show you and explain the extra cost before proceeding.
- Rotten decking, unexpected damage, extra flashing. These are legitimate extras. But you approve the cost before they do the work. Verbal agreements on a roof do not hold up. What roofers will not tell you.
- This is code in most areas. The sticky membrane goes in valleys, along eaves (first 3-6 feet), and around penetrations. It is your best defense against leaks.
- Metal drip edge goes along every roof edge. Some lazy crews skip it. Code requires it in most states. It costs almost nothing but prevents water damage to your fascia.
- The starter strip seals the bottom row of shingles against wind uplift. Without it, your first row of shingles can blow off in a storm. It is a code requirement and a warranty requirement.
- Standard is 4 nails. High-wind zones require 6. Fewer nails means the manufacturer can void your warranty. You cannot easily check this yourself, but the inspector will.
- Check that the ventilation matches what is on your estimate. Ridge vent should run the full length of the peak. If they quoted a ridge vent and installed box vents instead, that is a problem.
- Nails on your driveway, shingles in your flower beds, materials blocking your walkway. A professional crew cleans up every day. A magnet sweep for nails is standard. If they are not doing it, say something.
After Completion 7 items
The crew is gone. Here is what to do before you write that final check.
- If a permit was pulled, a county inspector needs to sign off. Do not let your roofer tell you it is not needed. The inspection protects you and confirms the work meets code.
- Walk around the entire house. Look for nails in the yard and driveway. Check that siding, gutters, downspouts, and landscaping were not damaged. Take photos of anything you find.
- A lien waiver confirms the contractor was paid and cannot place a lien on your property. Get one from the general contractor AND any subcontractors or material suppliers. This protects you if they do not pay their bills.
- The roofer should register your warranty with the manufacturer (GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed). Ask for the confirmation number or printed certificate. An unregistered warranty may not cover you.
- This is separate from the manufacturer warranty. It covers installation errors. Good roofers offer 5-15 years. Get it in writing with the company name, address, and date. See our glossary for more on warranty types.
- Put everything in one folder: the signed contract, permit, inspection report, both warranties, and before/after photos. You will need these if you file an insurance claim or sell your home.
- Take photos from all four sides of the house, plus close-ups of flashing, vents, and valleys if you can see them. Date-stamped photos are your proof of the roof's condition at completion. Free insurance if anything goes sideways later.